The latest acquisition to my watch collection is a Cartier Santos, a timeless design with a rich history in aviation. The Santos has always been a timepiece on my radar but not necessarily a must have, I always deemed the latest variations of Santos as too large and bulky- undoubtedly a ‘look at me’ kind of watch, which for me was an instant turn off. Vintage models, while aesthetically pleasing, are less versatile and wouldn’t co-ordinate with my dress sense or style. The vintage models wore a little on the small side, and felt rather feminine whenever I had the chance to wear one, this being purely my opinion of course! So in terms of finding the most suitable, pre 2018 left me with the Galbee XL, measuring in at a modest 35mm and retaining most of the traditional hallmarks the original Santos had displayed.
It was 2018 when the Cartier Santos line was re-vamped with a breath of fresh air following on from the long production run of the Cartier Santos 100 line, (the much larger, modern iterations I had mentioned before). The all new 2018 medium Santos embraced everything that I had wished for from a modern iteration; the iconic case shape, conservative proportion and versatility. It was only a few weeks ago I had the opportunity from a friend in Portugal, he was looking to sell his and I am now the proud new owner of this timepiece. So lets take a look and discover the Cartier Santos and my thoughts of the 2018 Santos medium (WSSA0010).
The Cartier Santos
It wouldn’t be a review without a quick introduction into the importance of the Santos and its beginnings, we look back to 1904 where Louis Cartier produced a watch for his good friend Alberto Santos-Dumont a famous pioneering aviator who I was first introduced to back in ground school. Alberto who is remembered today as a true pioneer pilot and hero of aviation required a timepiece that could be worn in order to keep track of time when piloting these early craft, this is where the Santos was born and its humble beginnings as the first ever pilots watch designed to be solely worn on the wrist were created. Its case shape and screws are still there today on current models, very different styling cues to what we now envisage as a ‘pilots’ watch- however undoubtably iconic and pioneering, like Santos himself. It was a few years later in 1911 when the Cartier Santos was tweaked and manufactured for retail in the Cartier boutique in Paris, Jaeger Le Coultre developed and provided the movement for these early models which required a thin calibre due to the size of the watch.
The Case
The case exhibits the timeless squared design coupled with eight exposed screws positioned around the dial. The 2018 model executing this iconic look with more flow towards the bracelet which contributes to a more integrated aesthetic, the entire case utilises more curve than previous Santos design characteristics and thus creating more continuity and flow throughout the timepiece. The crown guards approach the sapphire crown from both sides in a beautifully symmetrical fashion, reminiscent of two waves coming together shielding the deep blue jewel that allows the user to adjust the watch. The case uses a combination of polished and brushed steel, with polished bevels surrounding the dial, its well reported here that the 2018 Santos is a prime target for becoming a scratch magnet, however that hasn’t particularly bothered me. The case diameter measures 35.1mm x 41.9mm on the medium model, however due to the shape of the case, it wears closer to a 38mm timepiece.
The Dial
Likely to be one of the most trademark aesthetics of Cartier timepieces are the use of roman numerals, here they have been executed flawlessly angled to the extremity of the dial and sat just outside of the unique minute track that is filled at five minute increments. A superb balance is achieved on the uncluttered dial without the use of a date window, just three lines of text can be found including ‘’Cartier’’ seen once below the 12 o’clock and again inside the numeral of the 7 o’clock position, the text ‘’automatic’’ hovers above the 6 o’clock position bringing further balance and symmetry to the dial. To complete the dial aesthetic, the 3 hands are blued, which tie in beautifully with the blue sapphire placed inside the crown and really pops in certain light conditions. Light plays a very important part with this dial, creating a depth that the Santos dial somewhat lacks.
The Bracelet
Innovative, industrial and ergonomic would be the three words I would use to describe the bracelet used in the 2018 Santos. Its slightly disconcerting that such design could utilise a riveted stainless steel bracelet and transform into an all round daily wrist companion so naturally, however this is exactly what has happened. The bracelet illustrates perfectly how the Santos has evolved over its time in production and has become a more than capable all rounder, from a tool watch strapped to the wrist of a pioneering aviator, to being the choice of watch for many attending evening dinners and events. The steel bracelet conforms naturally to the wrist, and is extremely comfortable to wear, each individual link finished to an excellent standard. It has the sturdiness of an oyster bracelet from Rolex and the fit of a Royal Oak, a real win for the Santos here. For those of you with a little OCD, the screws (two to each link) flowing down the bracelet are set at different angles, creating asymmetry and mild panic attacks for some! This design feature doesn’t really frustrate me, I believe its quite refreshing to see and it adds a certain level of individuality to a watch that is mass produced. The clasp, a double butterfly style provides security with a reassuring click when set in the closed position, this folds effortlessly to mould into the bracelet design, subtly engraved with the cartier motif.
QuickSwitch
It would be criminal not to mention the QuickSwitch technology the 2018 Santos takes advantage of, this innovative system allows the user to effortlessly remove links, add links and change from bracelet to strap in less than 60 seconds. While I was hesitant at first regarding this advancement, I must mention I really admire what Cartier has done here, I am constantly changing straps and bracelets on lots of my watches and its a real breath of fresh air not having to struggle with lugs and spring bars. I have read of several cases of the watch head detaching itself from the bracelet, thanks to my paranoia and upon close inspection I double check and treble check that the end link is secure, before putting the watch back on my wrist. In most cases a little wiggle of the bracelet and a click can be heard, this ensures the spring mechanism has securely locked into place. Individual links can also be removed by applying pressure to a small button placed on the inside of the bracelet, a pin will then partially side out in which you can remove or add another link and adjust the size of the bracelet.
However, lets address the elephant in the room here, what about after market straps? Well unfortunately this won’t be possible with this model of Santos, however Cartier stock a wide variety of straps with various hide and colour-ways to choose from, meaning choice is abundant. Hopefully the QuickSwitch technology will be around in models to come from the Cartier catalogue, so these strap options will be available in the future, if not, I suggest you start to stockpile!
The Movement
The 2018 Cartier Santos is powered by an in-house calibre 1847 MC movement. While not exactly the jewel in the crown (no pun intended)! or powerhouse, it serves a purpose and gets the job done. It beats at 4hz and has a 42hr power reserve, so can hold its own for a few days while not being worn. A key point to mention here regarding the movement is that the 1847 has a date and no date version, meaning for the medium model (no date) there is no dead position when adjusting the watch using the crown.
To conclude
So far so good, I am really enjoying the Santos. Its certainly versatile and truly represents what the Santos is all about. I much prefer the dimensions and proportion of the medium model (WSSA0010) compared with the larger date version, I think that the medium model stands closer to the original Santos and therefore satisfies the purist in me. The QuickSwitch system, works well and is a very helpful feature, although I am undecided on its future proof ability. The movement, while nothing special it serves a purpose and will be fairly straightforward and economic to service. I am really looking forward to growing into the Santos and it cementing a solid position within my collection.
Technical specifications:
Power reserve: 42hrs
Jewels: 23
Case diameter: 35.1mm x 41.9mm
Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 100meters
All the best, Josh
Comments